Well, I was able to complete my dress. Although there were a few fitting challenges, I am happy with the way it turned out. Here are the details.
Pattern Description: Close-fitting, lined dress (fitted through hips) has yokes, right front with pleats, back princess seams, and invisible zipper.
Fabric: Black and Gingham Check Italian Linen - Waetcher's Fine Fabrics
Deluxe Tricot Interfacing - Fashion Sewing Supply (absolutely love their interfacing)
Black Bemberg Rayon Lining - in statsh
Pattern Adjustments: Wow, where do I begin? It took two muslin's for me to get the fit right on this dress. The first muslin I cut a 20 the in shoulders, arms and graded to a 24 plus an inch in the hips. I made a sway back and petite adjustments. That did not work. The top portion was too big, the girls were suffocating, the waist was tight and the hips spot on. I decided to start again from scratch. I knew I had to let the waist out, that was obvious. But the challenge, how to make a FBA and why was the shoulders and arm so big. I had the same problem with my red dress, but I attributed it to the waist being too large and made the adjustment in the waist.
I have been reading about bra making. Yep, I am planning to take the plunge. I will tell you about that in a later post. Well based on the information, I am wearing the wrong bra size. I have been measured, but evidently it's not right. So with this new information, this means I am an 18 not a 20 in the top. Now, how do I make the FBA? I have about 3 books in my library on fit, but I tend to gravitate to "The Perfect Fit, by Singer". ( I have the complete library.) I decided to use the FBA method for princess seam since the right front piece was cut that way. I made another muslin, cutting an 18 in the top, 22 in the waist grading to 24 plus an inch in the hips and a FBA. Voila, it worked. The wrong bra size, who would have thought?
Another fit issue pop up after I completed the shell of my dress. The dress was big around the neck. Back to the "The Perfect Fit" I went. Discovered, I have a slightly rounded back. To correct, I took the shoulder seam in 1/4 inch on each side. So going forward, I will need to make that pattern adjustment. That also explains some fit issues I have had in the past.
Sewing Techniques: On this dress, I decided to underline with tricot interfacing instead of organza to help with the wrinkling. I reduced the neckline and arm area by an 1/8 on lining pieces. That helps to keep the lining from peeking through. I also decided to try block fusing for the first time. I have to tell you, I'm hooked on block fusing. But here's a tip. Remove you cutting mat before you do it. I didn't and warped my cutting mat. ARRRRGH!!! After petiting, my dress was shorter than I like. So I added a hem facing. I also peg the my dress by an inch to keep from looking boxy.
Conclusion: I like the pattern and the directions were very easy. However, I do think the dress runs short. I would definitely make this dress again. I'm thinking about another version with short sleeves.
What's next? Good question. I am looking at completing another UFO. I have been talking about a white blouse for a while. It's been cut out since last year, so that will be my project for this upcoming week.
I'm in the process of planning my September projects. A bra is on the list so far. I'm also working on what pieces I want to add to my wardrobe for the Fall. Wow, I feel like I am finally getting into a sewing groove. That's a good feeling.
Well, until next time.........keep sewing!!